{"id":58208,"date":"2023-08-27T15:00:30","date_gmt":"2023-08-27T13:00:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sushiya.de\/?page_id=58208"},"modified":"2024-03-16T09:20:11","modified_gmt":"2024-03-16T08:20:11","slug":"gangfolge-menuestruktur-kaiseki","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.sushiya.de\/en\/kaiseki\/gangfolge-menuestruktur-kaiseki\/","title":{"rendered":"Course sequence and menu structure in Kaiseki"},"content":{"rendered":"
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How exactly the sequences of courses, the individual dishes and dishes of the kaiseki have developed historically is not clear. Much research is being done on this topic, and much more is being discussed on the subject of restaurant kaiseki.\u00a0<\/p>

Does that even exist, kaiseki in the context of a normal restaurant business? The idea of kaiseki seems to contradict this at first. Nevertheless, in Japan as abroad, more and more restaurants are offering kaiseki in addition to \"normal\" dishes. That should not be the topic here. What exactly is the sequence of courses in Kaiseki, why is it so, and what distinguishes Kaiseki from Cha-Kaiseki? Let's start at the beginning.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Probably developed from the Cha-Kaiseki<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The different spellings of the word Kaiseki<\/a> already suggest that there is ultimately not just one singular truth about kaiseki. If one looks at the gait sequences, which change seasonally and vary in the different regions of Japan, the visible diversity supports the idea. So there is not only one general and unique kaiseki. But there are thoughts, handed down structures and traditions behind the kaiseki, and many of these structures can already be found in the probably older cha-kaiseki.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Pleasure and entertainment<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The essence of these meals, originally rather simple with few ingredients but prepared with all the more care, was to enjoy the moment in peace and the company of like-minded people. The focus was therefore on the moment of rest. No ornamentation, no sumptuous meal, no conspicuously decorated tableware should distract. Kaiseki is simplicity, simplicity. It is precisely this simplicity of seasonally available food in the immediate vicinity that can be felt in every single course to this day. This is at least the case when the cook has understood kaiseki.
To show a food at its best, you do not need a lot of ingredients, nor elaborately prepared sauces or spices. In most cases, a simple but professional treatment of the food and the combination with one or at most two other\u00a0Ingredients.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

These ingredients are chosen in such a way that they make it possible to experience the respective characteristics of the food in all their complexity. In addition to taste, visual and tactile impressions play an important role. Mind you: It is still about the one dish, not about tableware, spatial impression, decoration of the plate or the like.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Differences become clear in comparison<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Kaiseki, strictly speaking, is a homonym used for both cha-kaiseki and kaiseki proper. In addition, there are historical references to practices among ascetic monks that suggest another, quite different meaning of the word kaiseki. What we know today as kaiseki is heavily influenced by Honzen-ry\u014dri \u672c\u81b3\u6599\u7406, the courtly cuisine of the Muromachi period \u5ba4\u753a\u6642\u4ee3.\u00a0<\/p>

Names for dishes from the Cha-Kaiseki have also been incorporated. Some dishes in the Kaiseki are older than the Cha-Kaiseki and do not appear in it. This is because Kaiseki, despite all its reduction, is more focused on entertainment and pleasure than Cha-Kaiseki.<\/p>

Cha-Kaiseki is served as part of a tea ceremony and conveys harmony, respect and simplicity. The simplicity falls away at the moment when entertainment through food and drink becomes the focus of the kaiseki, replacing the contemplative tranquility of the tea ceremony.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Structure of the Cha-Kaiseki<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The individual courses of Cha-Kaiseki follow a set order. They are served one after the other, not simultaneously. And the order is fixed. Nevertheless, the exact ingredients are variable. With each individual course, it becomes clear what is seasonal and available in the respective region.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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1. oshiki \u6298\u6577: rice, soup and muk\u014dzuke \u5411\u4ed8 or \u5411\u9644.<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Oshiki or Orishiki originally means something that is folded and presented, the term is composed of oru \u6298\u308b (fold) and shiku \u6577\u304f (present). The origin of this term is in the way of presenting meals. In the past, people folded the leaves of plants and placed them under the food. This evolved into platters and trays made from the wood of cedar or cypress, showing the natural grain of the wood.<\/p>

In this first course, the rice is placed on the left side and the soup occupies the right side. Muk\u014dzuke, or sashimi or namasu, eaten without soy sauce, is on the other side of the oshiki, opposite the guest.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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2. nimono-wan \u716e\u7269\u6900: forged<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Strained dishes are served in large, very deep bowls. Few strained ingredients find their place on the bottom of the bowl, and a clear broth is poured over it for serving. This course is also called wan-mori \u6900\u76db\u308a.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tAs in clear water, fish, bamboo, mushrooms and fern lie together. The arrangement looks incredibly natural and yet is artfully arranged.\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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3. yaki mono \u713c\u7269\u6900: Grilled<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A grilled dish forms the third course of the Cha-Kaiseki. And with this, a caesura takes place, because these first three courses are summarized as \"One soup, three vegetables\". The three vegetables stand for Muk\u014dzuke, the simmered ingredients and the grilled, which of course does not have to be of animal origin.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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4. shii-zakana \u5f37\u80b4, susume-zakana \u9032\u80b4: fried dishes.<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This course is served only when a boost is desired. Fried fish is the dish of choice here.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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5. hashi arai \u7bb8\u6d17\u3044 or kosuimono \u5b50\u5438\u3044\u7269: Clear broth with a light taste.<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This broth is somewhat reminiscent of warm water, but in fact there is quite a subtle taste. In the broth float small amounts of garnish.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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6. hassun \u516b\u5bf8: Three or more dishes of meat, fish or vegetables.<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Hassun is basically served by the host, teishu \u5e1d\u4e3b, and accompanied by sake \u9152.
This course is applied only after all other courses are finished and the bowls and plates are emptied. The strange name of this course comes from an old unit of measurement in Japan. A Sun \u5bf8 measures 3.03 centimeters, and the measurement was used until the Meiji period (18868-1912). This course is called hassun (eight = hachi \u516b, here shortened to \"has\" because of the following \"sun\"), literally 8 x 3.03 centimeters. The name refers to a tray made of cedar, which has an edge length of roughly 24 centimeters. It is surrounded by a narrow, slightly raised rim. Rules specify exactly how food should be served on this hassun.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tBamboo sticks and a hassun, which is also made of bamboo - traditionally it should be cedar. Nevertheless, you can clearly see how the two dishes are arranged.\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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7. k\u014d-no-mono \u9999\u306e\u7269 and yut\u014d \u6e6f\u6876: Japanese pickles and koge-yu \u7126\u3052\u6e6f<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The two dishes are used to clean the plates that guests have used. The host is thus shown gratitude and respect. K\u014d-no-mono is a sour pickled vegetable (usually soured with vinegar) typical of Japanese cuisine. Koge-yu is the name for the rice left at the bottom of the traditional rice stove. This rice is caramelized to a golden color by direct contact with the heat and is lightly salted and boiling water is poured over it. Yut\u014d is the name of the pot in which koge-yu is served. So in this case, the pot gives the name to the dish.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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8. matcha \u62b9\u8336 and wagashi\/o-kashi \u548c\u83d3\u5b50\/\u304a\u83d3\u5b50<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This is the main course, the actual tea ceremony. After Koicha \u6fc3\u8336, the thick tea, Japanese sweets (Wagashi) and Usucha \u8584\u8336, a thin tea, are served. Usucha is the frothed, light green matcha now known in the West. Koicha is about twice as concentrated, and the color is much more intense. Wagashi is the name for Japanese-style sweets, in contrast to Western-style sweets. Chocolate, wine gums, candies, and chocolates are called Y\u014dgashi \u6d0b\u83d3\u5b50 (Western sweets). Wagashi are made in their dry version from pressed powdered sugar, color, and possibly a subtle flavoring. In a second, somewhat less \"dusty\" category, wagashi are made from beans and sugar. Rice flour may also be used. The fine sweetness of the wagashi forms a counterpoint to the tea, in contrast the respective own flavors of the sweets and the tea are strengthened.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tMade with pressed powdered sugar and little coloring, the candy served on paper pieces releases a fine-dusty taste in the mouth that prepares the taste buds for matcha.\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tTwo teas, one wagashi: this is the typical arrangement. The sweet is cut with the small bamboo fork and passed to the mouth in small bites. Traditionally, a small stack of square papers is also included, on which the sweet is taken in the left hand before the fork is used to cut the small pieces in the right.\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Characteristic: One plate for all<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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With the exception of the first, second and fifth courses, each course is served on a single platter from which all guests take. Etiquette dictates that a guest takes his or her dish from the platter and then passes the platter to the next guest, who can enjoy both the dish and the presentation of it. But what does a kaiseki look like in comparison?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kaiseki: structure and gait sequence<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The structure of the kaiseki and the courses are indeed fixed. But there is definitely a bit of variance. For example, alternative names are possible, and additional courses can be served. Exactly how the kaiseki is structured depends on what foods are available locally and seasonally. The chef's personal preferences, his training, current occasions and much more play a role. So in kaiseki, the courses as a whole are not fixed, only the structure as such is fixed. For some courses, the method of preparation is fixed, for others, what the dish has to harmonize with.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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1. sakizuke \u5148\u4ed8 (also Zensai \u524d\u83dc Hashi-wari)\u7bb8\u5272)<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A dish served, accompanied by sake, at the entrance of the meal.<\/p>

optional: Mae-Hassun \u524d\u516b\u5bf8.<\/strong>\u00a0A dish served during the first half of the course. Mae \u524d means \"before\", specifying that this course is served before the actual hassun.
optional: Oshinogi \u304a\u51cc\u304e.<\/strong>\u00a0A small dish to satisfy hunger a little. May consist of one or two pieces of sushi or a small amount of soba.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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2. wan-mori \u6900\u76db (also called shiru-mono \u6c41\u7269 or sakisui \u5148\u5438\u3044).<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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In the simplest version, it's dashi \u51fa\u6c41 topped with soy sauce and a little salt, with a wan-dane \u6900\u7a2e such as seafood or chicken. Tsuma \u3064\u307e enhances the flavor of the wan-dane and adds some color to the dish, and a sui-kuchi \u5438\u3044 \u53e3 floats on top of the soup as a seasoning ingredient.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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3. muk\u014dzuke \u5411\u4ed8 (alternatively sashimi \u523a\u8eab, tsukuri \u4f5c\u308a or katsu-sen \u6d3b\u9bae).<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Muk\u014dzuke is known as part of the first course in Cha-Kaiseki. Here, it is served independently as a single course. The term \"Muk\u014dzuke\" means nothing more than \"something placed on the other side of rice and soup\".<\/p>

optional: Oshinogi \u304a\u51cc\u304e.<\/strong>\u00a0The same as above, then it will be served alternatively at this point. The option here is to be understood as an either-or, the course does not occur twice in the Kaiseki.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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4. yakimono \u713c\u7269 (alternatively dai-no-mono \u53f0\u306e\u7269 or yaki-hassun \u713c\u516b\u5bf8).<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A grilled dish. While yakimono simply means anything from the grill, dai-no-mono usually refers to seasonal food. Please do not confuse this with dai-no-mono in Shojin- ry\u014dri \u7cbe\u9032\u6599\u7406, because in that case dai-no-mono can also mean a nabe-mono \u934b\u7269, or stew. Yaki-hassun refers to a grilled dish that clarifies the theme of kaiseki in the sense of hassun.<\/p>

optional: Ai-zakana \u5408\u80b4.<\/strong>\u00a0A steamed or fried dish or something similar.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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5. nimono-wan \u716e\u7269\u6900 or futa-mono \u84cb\u7269<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A boiled dish<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\tThe exact ingredients that make up a nimono-wan or futa-mono are, of course, quite variable. Tofu, as served here at a kaiseki in Ky\u014dto, is just one of many possibilities.\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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optional: Hassun \u516b\u5bf8: Hassun basically consists of two specialties. One of them is from the sea and the other is from the mountains.<\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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6. shii-zakana \u5f37\u80b4 (alternatively susume-zakana \u9032\u80b4, azuke-bachi \u9810\u3051\u9262, oi-zakana \u8ffd\u80b4 or tome-zakana \u7559\u80b4).<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A deep fried dish, a steamed dish, a vinegar soured dish and so on. In summer, this is also referred to as hiyashi-bachi \u51b7\u3084\u3057\u9262. Typically, only a single ingredient is served. However, it is also possible to serve several things under different names.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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7. shokuji \u98df\u4e8b<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Rice or sushi combined with a soup called tome-wan \u7559\u6900, ko- suimono \u5c0f\u5438\u7269, hashi arai \u7bb8\u6d17\u3044, yusui-wan \u6e6f\u5438\u3044\u6900 or hitokuchi-wan \u4e00\u53e3\u6900, and Japanese pickles (ko-no-mono\u9999\u306e\u7269). Sometimes a noodle dish is also served at this point. Tome-wan is a slightly thicker soup, while ko-suimono refers to a clear broth. Hashi-arai also means a light broth. So we are talking about the typical arrangement of a Japanese meal in its simplest form. This consists of a bowl of rice, a soup and a side dish, in this case a pickled vegetable.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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8. mizu-gashi \u6c34\u83d3\u5b50 (alternatively kanmi \u7518\u5473 and mizu-mono \u6c34\u7269).<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Dessert. Usually it is a very simple dessert such as fruit, jelly, ice cream or a compote. Jelly is close to the German G\u00f6tterspeise, but in Japan it usually consists of natural ingredients on a vegetable basis.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Fixed sequence with possibility of insertions<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The order of the different courses at the Kaiseki is set like this. Each individual menu item can have completely different names and designations. Often word games are used, which are peculiar to the Japanese language. People simply like to play with the designations, and a certain freedom results from the fact that the characters and words can be combined in new ways.
Incidentally, it is quite possible for the chef to serve a so-called hashi yasume \u7bb8\u4f11\u3081, perhaps also referred to as kuchi-tori \u53e3\u53d6\u308a or kuchi-gawari \u53e3\u4ee3\u308a, in the middle of the meal. It is a small intermediate course meant to refresh the mouth and get the taste buds ready for the next courses. Perhaps a sweet dish is also served to change the mood in the middle of the meal. These subtleties depend on the preferences of the chef.
The temporal structure of kaiseki also varies and depends on the preferences of the cook. In general, however, the structure of kaiseki is more flexible and open than that of cha-kaiseki. The entertainment aspect is emphasized more. Contributing to the entertainment value is the fact that while each individual dish can be enjoyed in kaiseki, the sequence of dishes can always be seen as a\u00a0perceives a constant, harmonious and coherent development. The way the flavors of the various dishes develop gives an indication of what the chef was thinking when preparing the meal.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Other aspects of the Kaiseki<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Exactly how the various courses of the kaiseki are named depends on the season, the occasion of the day, and the characteristics of the menu. Therefore, it is well worth asking and thinking about the name of the course. This attention to detail is palpable to Japanese people and shows them how carefully the cook has prepared the meal. One can speak here of a spirit of kaiseki and the proverbial Japanese hospitality<\/a> which is already clear in the naming of the menu alone.
Kaiseki is and remains elusive despite all the explanations. If you ask ten different chefs about the criteria of kaiseki, you will get ten different answers.
Critics insist that there is no such thing as restaurant kaiseki. The core idea of kaiseki contradicts everything that is possible in a commercially run restaurant. If kaiseki is offered in restaurants as a fixed part of the menu, one may certainly interpret kaiseki much more broadly than shown here. Whether this is \"really kaiseki\" or an advertising gimmick by the restaurant is ultimately for each guest to decide for himself.
If restaurants offer kaiseki as a special event away from the normal restaurant business, for example as a service for guests on special occasions or in closed company after advance booking, this may well be a \"real\" kaiseki.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Further information\/sources:<\/p>