{"id":62240,"date":"2025-01-09T18:58:12","date_gmt":"2025-01-09T17:58:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sushiya.de\/?page_id=62240"},"modified":"2025-01-20T13:36:42","modified_gmt":"2025-01-20T12:36:42","slug":"shojin-ryori","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.sushiya.de\/en\/washoku\/shojin-ryori\/","title":{"rendered":"Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri \u2013 vegetarian Japanese temple cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Introduction to Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri (Buddhist Vegetarian Cuisine)<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri (\u7cbe\u9032\u6599\u7406) is a form of Japanese cuisine that is closely linked to Buddhism, particularly Zen (\u7985). Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri is often referred to as vegetarian temple cuisine.<\/p>

Sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri is an important part of the culinary heritage of Washoku<\/a>: it combines respect for all living beings with sophisticated cooking techniques and an aesthetic based on simplicity and mindfulness.<\/p>

In the context of the many facets of Washoku \u2013 such as Honzen cuisine<\/a>, Kaiseki cuisine<\/a> or Cha-Kaiseki<\/a> \u2013 Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri plays a special role, as it reflects the spiritual core of Mahayana Buddhism.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The only case where Japanese cuisine is clearly vegetarian<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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From a historical perspective, Sh\u014djin cuisine<\/strong> The most important and well-known style of cuisine in Japan, which consistently avoids meat and fish. It is closely linked to Zen Buddhism and was initially only practiced in temples, but was later adopted by wider society.<\/p>

In a Buddhist context, the term \u201esh\u014djin\u201c (\u7cbe\u9032) means \u201eto abstain\u201c (from meat, for example) and at the same time to train the mind by eating consciously and mindfully.<\/p>

However, sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri is more than just \u201evegetarian food.\u201c It is based on the Buddhist precept of not killing any living thing (sessh\u014d, \u6bba\u751f) and not stimulating \u201ebonn\u014d\u201c (passions and desires that torment the mind, \u7169\u60a9).<\/p>

Apart from this traditionally Buddhist style, the Japanese cuisine in general as omnivorous<\/a> \u2013 from home cooking to upscale menus (such as Kaiseki). This means that it is usually based on a mixture of plant and animal ingredients (fish, meat, seafood, eggs and \u2013 less commonly \u2013 dairy products).<\/p>

So you could say that sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri is the classic and only clearly defined vegetarian cuisine style<\/strong> Japan's, while the majority of today's Japanese dishes are still omnivorous.<\/p>

(There are also fucha-ry\u014dri and several other, mostly Buddhist-influenced variants, but these are either closely based on sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri or are specific regional forms.)<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Historical background<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The beginnings in Japan<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri came to Japan in the late Heian and Kamakura periods via the Zen monks Eisai (\u6804\u897f) and D\u014dgen (\u9053\u5143). Both had studied in the Song Dynasty (\u5b8b) and brought Zen teachings, as well as vegetarian practices, to Japan. Eisai is also considered the monk who promoted tea cultivation, the origin of today's Japanese tea.<\/p>

As early as 1237, D\u014dgen<\/a> laid the foundation for the spiritual significance of food preparation with his work \u201eTenzo Ky\u014dkun\u201c (\u5178\u5ea7\u6559\u8a13). Every activity in the kitchen is regarded as an act of devotion, illustrating that this is much more than just a cookbook.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Development during the Heian and Kamakura periods<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The precursors to vegetarian cuisine already existed in the Heian period (794\u20131185), but it was often mildly seasoned and salted individually as needed. This cuisine was not strictly meat-free, as fish and poultry were still tolerated to some extent. It was not until the Kamakura period (1185\u20131333) that the strict Sh\u014djin-Ry\u014dri developed: dishes were seasoned more consciously, which refined the art of cooking as a whole. This refinement had a far-reaching influence on Japanese cuisine as a whole, establishing new flavor nuances and preparation techniques.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Prevalence in Muromachi and samurai society<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri was originally the diet of Zen monks, but during the Muromachi period (1336\u20131573) it also became popular among samurai. The war-weary warriors appreciated the salty taste and invigorating effect of certain dishes. Over time, sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri eventually found its way into the food culture of the ordinary urban population.<\/p>

In addition, the principle developed \u201eMottainai\u201c (\u3082\u3063\u305f\u3044\u306a\u3044)<\/a>, i.e. the desire not to waste food. This attitude was particularly cultivated in temples and served to treat all ingredients with the utmost care.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Special ingredients and typical dishes<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Abstaining from meat, fish, and \u201egokun\u201c (\u4e94\u8477)<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri avoids meat and fish, as well as strong-smelling vegetables (gokun, \u4e94\u8477). These include garlic, chives, leeks, rakkyo (shallots), and wild leeks. According to Buddhist teachings, they stimulate desire and anger and are therefore avoided.<\/p>

Depending on the Buddhist school, this prohibition can go even further, for example by also avoiding potatoes or onions in order not to interrupt the life cycle of the plant.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Staple foods and supplementation with soy<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Since sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri does not use animal proteins, it relies heavily on grains, nuts, seeds, seaweed, legumes, and fruits (sh\u014djin mono, \u7cbe\u9032\u7269). To meet nutritional requirements, chefs frequently use soy products such as natto, tofu, and abura-age (fried tofu pockets).<\/p>

- natto<\/strong>Originally from China (during the Northern Wei Dynasty, \u5317\u9b4f), it was brought to Japan and further developed within Zen temple cuisine.
- tofu<\/strong>: Originated around 200 BC during the Han Dynasty (\u6f22) and became the main source of protein for vegetarian temple cuisine in Japan via Song Dynasty Buddhism.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Wheat products and oil use<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A special feature of sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri is pasta made from wheat flour. Somen (\u7d20\u9eba), baozi (\u5305\u5b50, stuffed steamed buns), suiton (\u6c34\u56e3, flour dumplings in soup), manj\u016b (\u9945\u982d, sweet buns), and fu (\u9ea9, wheat gluten) are typical examples. The spread of wheat as a crop (grown as a secondary crop in rice fields) from the Kamakura period onwards promoted this development.<\/p>

- Manjy\u016b<\/strong>The word actually comes from a Chinese dish with meat filling (mantou), but Zen monks replaced the meat with red bean paste (azuki) and adapted the recipe.
- Tempura and oil<\/strong>While fried dishes made with sesame oil were rare in the past, the technique became increasingly popular during the Azuchi-Momoyama period (late 16th century).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Goma (sesame) as a key ingredient<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sesame (goma) was valued in China as a remedy and offers a wide range of nutrients. This is used to make the famous Sesame tofu (\u80e1\u9ebb\u8c46\u8150)<\/strong>, a type of \u201esesame kuzu pudding\u201c developed on Mount K\u014dyasan (\u9ad8\u91ce\u5c71). Fresh sesame seeds are ground, mixed with Yoshino kuzu, and steamed to form a pudding-like mixture. Sesame oil is also used for frying and deep-frying.<\/p>

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Sesame also often plays a role in the so-called \u201eSantoku\u201c (\u4e09\u5fb3) \u2013 three virtues in handling food (preparation, cooking, serving). Sesame oil can be used to achieve a delicate flavor without using animal fats.<\/p>

In addition, tofu is served in many forms: besides abura-age, koya d\u014dfu (dried tofu) and yuba (soy milk skin) are also used, the latter being particularly popular in Kyoto.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Modoki-Ry\u014dri (\u3082\u3069\u304d\u6599\u7406) \u2013 the art of imitation<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Another special feature of Japanese sh\u014djin cuisine is what is known as \u201emodoki-ry\u014dri,\u201c dishes that imitate the taste and consistency of meat or fish in order to add variety to meals.<\/p>

- Ganmodoki (ganmodoki)<\/strong>: Mashed tofu with vegetables such as carrots and burdock, deep-fried in oil, reminiscent of goose meat (\u201egan\u201c).
- Unagi-Modoki (eel substitute)<\/strong>Made from grated Yamatoimo (\u5927\u548c\u828b), burdock root, momen tofu, and potato starch, wrapped in nori and baked with sauce, so that it resembles grilled eel.
\u2022 Konnyaku can also be cut into thin slices and used as Sashimi<\/a>-Serve as a substitute, or shiitake mushrooms resemble abalone in texture and appearance.<\/p>

Many monks or cooks use their creativity here to Dashi<\/a>-Creating alternatives. In addition to shiitake and kombu, roasted soybeans or azuki beans can be used to make broth, creating purely vegan options.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Rules and etiquette in sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Everything is part of Buddhist practice<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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In Buddhism, every action related to food preparation, consumption, and disposal is part of the training.<\/p>

D\u014dgen, the founder of S\u014dt\u014d-sh\u016b (\u66f9\u6d1e\u5b97), wrote the work \u201eTenzo Ky\u014dkun\u201c (\u5178\u5ea7\u6559\u8a13) about the attitude of a person responsible for the kitchen (Tenzo).<\/p>

The central principles are:
- Mindful use of ingredients<\/strong><\/a> (don't waste anything)
- Keep things tidy and take care of utensils<\/strong>
- Cooking from the perspective of the diners<\/strong>
- Demonstrate commitment and creativity<\/strong>
- Pay attention to San-shin (\u4e09\u5fc3, Three Spirits or Three Hearts)<\/strong>:<\/p>