A tuna for Tantris | SUSHIYA sansaro

A tuna for Tantris

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The Tantris restaurant in Munich is not only the "oldest" star restaurant in Germany - it is a legend. All the more, of course, we are proud of a collaboration with the renowned restaurant. How it comes to this, although we as specialists for Sushi & japanese cuisine The following article will tell you about the many aspects of the restaurant that, on the surface, seem to have nothing to do with a gourmet restaurant with a strong French orientation.

The legendary gourmet restaurant Tantris

From the magical-mystical design of the premises, to the constant chefs and kitchen performances over many years, to a daring and extremely successful general renovation in 2020/2021: the Tantris is not just a temple of dining for the better-off - it is a place of longing for enjoyment, culinary art and experience for all those with an interest in cuisine. 

And the more we work with SUSHIYA ourselves with fine Japanese cuisine and the craft of cooking with high-quality material in depth, the more we also admire such places, which for years and in this case even decades stand for special culinary qualities and pay homage to the love of enjoyable, delicious food.

A big fish on the line - not in the trawl net

So we didn't have to ask long when the idea came up whether we could join forces with the Tantris and the neighboring Sparkling Bistro share a tuna and want to cut it together.

Because the Tantris had literally landed a tuna, with the help of a small family business in Brittany that uses a small bot and a large pole to catch a single tuna with a line (一本釣り, Ippon-zuri) - exactly as it should be, with no bycatch and no trawls.

To fully process and use such a large, fresh tuna is difficult even for a large restaurant like Tantris on its own - and behind the scenes, we have been privileged time and again to receive private visits for dinner or delivery orders from restaurant colleagues.

Hands on with experienced Japanese chef

A collaboration with the renowned Tantris is not something that just lands on your roof (to quote the Stegwirt in Bad Goisern). 

It has more to do with the fact that we have always placed emphasis on this since 2007, qualified japanese chefs and share with them a love of good material and create a climate in which they can work in a quality-oriented manner. This also means that we don't want to engage in simplifications in some places, even if they are en vouge with customers in Munich. In recent years, more and more guests are starting to notice the difference, and we are proud to now be able to work with our Restaurant sansaro also in the Guide Michelin to be listed.

Japanese kitchen crafts in Munich

For Tantris and our neighbor, Jürgen Wolfsgruber's Sparkling Bistro, which also holds a Michelin star, it was a great opportunity to see how a Japanese chef approaches the carving of a large, whole tuna. 

This is because how the fish is cut up and how the meat is subsequently treated decisively determines whether and to what extent it is later also suitable for the use of Sushi & Sashimi is suitable. And, of course, Japanese craftsmanship in general is known for its particular depth and, in particular, the culinary art for the expertise around raw fish.

Special experience of Japanese chefs

Thus, our chef Riichiro Matsui was the right man to cut this fish together with the team from Tantris. 

Of course, in principle, every cook, whether in Japan or Germany, knows how fish is cut. However, quite a bit of experience is required to cut up a large Cut tuna. 

By the way, not all Japanese cooks have this experience either, because usually the rough cutting work (orosu) is done by the specialized traders in the Japanese fish market.

But of course, it's fortunate that Chef Matsui, in addition to his profound training in Japanese cuisine, has also carved several dozen tuna himself. 

The tuna is cut together

But when we arrived at Tantris, our chef was amazed: 

this tuna was actually no small undertaking at an estimated 130 kg! Fortunately, there were enough cooks at Tantris to lend a hand - but the chef had to make the essential cuts himself, also due to the tight time window. 

The rough cutting of a tuna is no walk in the park and so after a short time the first beads of sweat stood on his forehead. While half a dozen chefs from Germany's Michelin-starred restaurant #1 closely followed every cut made by our chef, the huge fish very slowly turned into large pieces of Maguro Akami and also some Toro, as we know it from Japanese restaurants.

And when there was appreciative applause for our chef at the end, he too seemed happy and proud despite the effort.

The best quality is always sustainable

Benjamin Chmura, head chef at Tantris, who has been crowned with two Michelin stars, follows a very deliberate concept: "This is how fishing should actually go: only one boat, one trip per week, one fish per boat - caught with the line, not with the net. For the best quality and the right attitude towards the sea".

Sustainable by conviction

This is also very important for us - for many years we have been using As much organic as possible and are now also SlowFood supporters. The idea is not only better quality for the guest, but also the conscious, mindful use of resources and food.

If one decides to eat living creatures, then it is particularly important for us that the life of the animals was worth living and that they are also treated respectfully as far as possible. This is the main reason why we have for years been focusing on organic as much as possible and especially with meat on the highest possible quality.

Constantly striving for ever better quality

We are enormously grateful to our customers that they have always supported this path, which we have deepened over the last 15 years, and that we always use as much organic as possible - even where it is not visible or directly tasted (e.g. flour, milk, butter, etc.). 

For many years, we have always been grateful for the great, tangibly heartfelt, enthusiastic praise from our customers and the sometimes very strong rush of guests.

Through our collaboration with the Tantris and the philosophy we experienced there, we once again feel encouraged in this path.

A lot of handwork from fish to plate

Back to the fish: after about two hours of sweaty work, the first raw fillets could be provisionally packed. 

But before a tuna fillet becomes a "saku," a prepared piece of fish fillet waiting in the sushi display case for your visit and order, there are still a few steps to go. 

Here again it depends on the fine cutting technique and the practiced handling of the Japanese knives to prepare the Saku in such a way that the chef can later make very nice Nigiri and Sashimi can cut.

No "Saku" yet, but only one intermediate step of many

For Tantris and sansaro, however, evening business soon began and so there was only time for a very brief tour of the legendary restaurant, bathed in wonderful orange, before both crews had to get back to work in their restaurants.

The special success that makes a Benjamin Chmura a two-star chef does not come by itself. Colleague Jürgen Wolfsgruber explains to us: "On the one hand, Ben has the talent - but also the mindset. He's in the kitchen from 7 a.m. every day - only on Sunday does he take half a day off!"

The reward for his efforts is that Benjamin Chmura has immediately earned two stars with the newly opened Tantris and is now considered a hot contender for a third star. 

Since we have since learned ourselves that the Michelin awards are not, as one might commonly believe as a layman, awarded for ambience and celebrity factor, but for culinary depth, consistent quality and skillful handling of food, we definitely trust Ben with this.

Three restaurants process a fish - each in its own way

So for those who can afford it, now offers a Tour of all three restaurants, the legendary Tantris, the Michelin-starred restaurant Sparkling Bistro and, of course, our restaurant sansaro in the Amalienpassage. 

And if that's too expensive for you, just come to our restaurant sansaro several times in a row and try what our Japanese chefs come up with now to stage the catch from Brittany always different 😉.

Now on the menu of the day in the restaurant sansaro

We immediately process the fresh, line-caught tuna in the restaurant into various, ever-changing daily dishes with tuna - be sure to try! Of course, only while stocks last, our chefs play creatively & modern-Japanese with the fresh, sustainable tuna. 

Since the tuna from Brittany has a much milder inherent taste than our Balfego tuna usually used for sushi & sashimi, our chef has processed this valuable raw material in the "warm kitchen". And if the comments of the guests are to be believed, he succeeded well. In particular, the "Maguro-Yuke" with the Moromiso is loved by the guests - and even Ben Chmura has tried it in the meantime and with generous praise ("Genius!") considered.

In case of doubt, as always, follow the recommendation of our service.

Starting October 5, 2022 on the day pass in sansaro:

Onigiri (rice balls) with lightly fried sushi rice, a homemade chili mayonnaise and tartar with sesame oil, maguro tartar and nori.
Maguro-Yuke, a tuna tartare marinated with moromiso, cucumber, nori and egg yolk from organic quail egg at sansaro restaurant.
Classic tuna tartare with homemade kimchi mayonnaise, avocado and gyoza chips.

Starting October 7, 2022 on the day pass at sansaro:

Hiyashi-Maguro Udon - a small refreshing noodle soup with tuna fillet

Starting October 12, 2022 on the day pass in sansaro:

Maguro-Natto-Fry: deep-fried linen-caught tuna (akami) with natto, marinated in shio-kōji fried in a panko and aonori coating, served with kizami wasabi.
Toro Steaki Aburi with Balscamico Soy Sauce and Taro Root

Otsukaresama deshita!

It was a great experience for us to work with the Tantris team. 

Our chef was particularly impressed by the demeanor and personality of the personable, completely down-to-earth 2-star chef Chmura: "He was very different than I thought he would be!". 

And looking at Ben's work schedule, he goes on to say: "For him, I would also make an extra Kaiseki menu on a sunday make." - for the experienced, Japanese chef is then probably something like the highest recognition that he has Ben by his handling and the observed craft (keyword: fresh game 😉 immediately in the heart.

Chef sansaro Riichiro Matsui, Chef Tantris Ben Chmura and SUSHIYA founder Alexander Reinelt after carving and before the evening's business.
Sharing pleasure in Japanese

SUSHIYA is passionate about Japanese cuisine and culture. In our restaurant sansaro you can encounter the fascinating Japanese cuisine or have it delivered to your home. On our homepage, Facebook and Instragram we always give insights into news and interesting topics.